Ultimate Travel Guide: New Zealand

The famous Russell lupins  around Lake Tekapo  and the Mackenzie Basin  generally begin flowering in late November. Peak colour often occurs during early December, although the exact timing depends on spring temperatures. Flowers can remain into late December or occasionally early January, but they are usually past their best by February. Early December is therefore the safest period for a lupin-focused photography trip.

Keep in mind that many of the densest lupin fields seen online are located on private farmland. Never cross a fence or enter a field without the landowner’s permission. Russell lupins are an introduced invasive species and are actively controlled in some areas. Many locals get annoyed with people trespassing on their farmland to take selfies in the flowers, this is understandable especially if their fences get damaged from people climbing over them.

If you drive through Aruthr's Pass  and around Lake Tekapo you will surely see many lupins flowering too.

New Zealand is also an excellent destination for astrophotography. September can be a good month, but it is not automatically the clearest or best month for photographing the Milky Way. New Zealand has good stargazing throughout the year, winter generally provides longer nights and clearerer conditions. Moon phase, cloud cover, light pollution and the position of the Galactic Centre  should all be considered when choosing your dates.

When planning your trip, the summer school holidays are another important consideration, as accommodation, ferry crossings and popular destinations become much busier. The 2026/27 summer holiday begins no later than Saturday, 19 December and runs for five or six weeks. Individual schools reopen between Thursday, 28 January and Wednesday, 3 February 2027.

If you are trying to avoid school holiday peak tourism and are coming from overseas, I think coming Early December or Early February are good options.

For hiking trips, the Department of Conservation , commonly known as DOC, is the most important source of information. Its website provides current details about huts, campsites, track conditions, closures, fees and booking requirements.

 Mueller Hut in Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park  is a good example. Bookings are required between 11 November and 30 April, and DOC does not keep spaces available for visitors arriving without a reservation. From 1 May to 10 November, the hut operates on a first-come, first-served basis, but hikers must still purchase a ticket and register their intentions at the visitor centre before beginning the walk. 

Facilities in mountain huts are generally basic, and vary considerably between locations. Always read the page for the individual hut before setting out. 

There is currently no general entrance ticket for Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park, and entry to the DOC visitor centre is free. However, separate charges may apply to parking, huts and campsites. For example, DOC currently charges for parking at the White Horse Hill car park . The hike is relatively easy and flat with an undulating terrain in some areas. That's me hiking in the image below!

The New Zealand Government has announced plans to introduce an access charge for international visitors at several high-volume conservation sites, including Aoraki/Mount Cook. An indicative price of NZ$20–40 per person has been discussed. However, as of September 2026, legislation enabling these charges was still progressing and the final fees, collection process and commencement date had not been confirmed in the official information I found. Check the DOC website before travelling!

On public conservation land, freedom camping may be permitted unless a location is specifically prohibited or restricted. However, it is generally not allowed in DOC-administered scenic and recreation reserves unless DOC has provided or approved a designated campsite. Restrictions may also limit the number of nights or allow only certified self-contained vehicles. Always check the official DOC or council information and read the signs at the location.

From 7 June 2026, vehicles must display a current green warrant to qualify as certified self-contained. Portable toilets no longer meet the certification standard; the toilet must be permanently fixed to the vehicle floor. This requirement applies when camping at sites restricted to certified self-contained vehicles.

Freedom camping may be free of charge, but it is not free of responsibility. Use public toilets or the toilet in your certified vehicle, dispose of wastewater only at approved dump stations, remove all rubbish and leave the location exactly as you found it.

 CamperMate can be useful for finding campsites, public toilets and dump stations, but information in an app should be treated as a planning aid. Official DOC pages, council maps and on-site signs always take priority. This app is also great if you looking for tent campsite as well, not just for campervans.

Tent camping is allowed only where the relevant rules permit it. It is not acceptable to pitch a tent beside the road, on private property or in a prohibited reserve simply because the location appears empty or remote.

Honestly, as a Kiwi, I am in two minds about this rule for tents. On the one hand, it is frustrating to have less freedom to explore and enjoy our natural landscapes. On the other hand, these restrictions help manage litter, over tourism and the impact visitors can have on local wildlife.

In the past, one of the best ways to travel around New Zealand was in a simple van. You could stay overnight in many places and use nearby public toilets, which made travelling feel incredibly free. Since the fixed-toilet requirements were introduced, that style of travel has become much more difficult. Travelers now need a certified self-contained campervan or motorhome to use freedom-camping areas, and even these vehicles can only stay overnight where local rules permit. 

With that in mind, let’s look at the best motorhome and campervan options for travelling around New Zealand.

Maui is an excellent premium option, particularly if you need to collect or return the vehicle in Queenstown. Britz is a reliable all-round choice with a wide range of vehicles and good nationwide support, while Mighty offers more affordable, basic motorhomes. JUCY and Travellers Autobarn are better suited to solo travellers or couples looking for a smaller, budget-friendly campervan.

Before booking, check whether the rental agreement allows the vehicle can cross Cook Strait by ferry.

At pickup, photograph the entire vehicle, record any existing damage and test the heater, refrigerator, water system, toilet and electrical outlets.

Keep in mind New Zealanders drive on the left-hand side of the road. Many roads outside the main cities are narrow, hilly and winding, and journey times are often longer than the distance suggests. Rural routes may also include gravel roads, one-lane bridges, farm vehicles and livestock.

Allow more time than your navigation app suggests since the roads are winding, and check road conditions before beginning a long journey. Especially for Milford Sounds, the Homer Tunnel  on the way to Milford Sound does not permanently close every night, but it does experience periodic overnight closures for scheduled maintenance or safety work.

As of September 2026, visitors with a current overseas driver’s licence can drive in New Zealand for up to 18 months. However, an amendment taking effect on 1 November 2026 returns this period to 12 months. You must carry your licence whenever you drive. When the licence is not in English, you must also carry an approved English translation or an International Driving Permit together with the original licence.

Before confirming a rental, check:

    • One-way rental fees. 

    • Whether the vehicle is permitted on the Cook Strait ferry if you plan to do the crossing.

Some rental companies allow their vehicles to travel on the ferry, while others require customers to return the car in Wellington or Picton and collect another vehicle after crossing. Confirm the policy with the rental company before booking the ferry.

Download your route and important booking details for offline use. Mobile reception can disappear in remote areas, espeically South Island areas like Arthurs Pass.

The crossing generally takes around three and a half hours, although schedules can change because of weather. Cars, motorcycles, campervans and trailers can be carried when they are correctly included in the booking.

Both companies offer several ticket categories, ranging from lower-cost non-refundable fares to more flexible or refundable options. The final price depends on the sailing, fare type, number of passengers, vehicle dimensions and availability. Use the operators’ live booking systems for an accurate quote, and book early when travelling during summer or school holidays.

I have travelled multiple times with both companies and they are both great!

Pets can travel, but they must be declared when booking. On Interislander, most pets must remain in the vehicle, travel in a pre-booked kennel or be transported in an approved cage. On Bluebridge, pets generally remain in the vehicle or a kennel, although dedicated dog-friendly cabins are available on selected sailings. 

Always check whether your rental-car company permits the vehicle to cross Cook Strait. Some companies allow the same vehicle to travel, while others require a vehicle exchange between Wellington and Picton. 

Network coverage percentages can be misleading. Spark states that its 4G and 5G networks reach 99% of New Zealanders, while 2degrees advertises 4G coverage in 98.5% of the places where New Zealanders live and work. These figures describe population coverage—not coverage across 99% of the country’s land area.

Before travelling into a remote area:

    • Download offline maps and route information. 

    • Save screenshots of hut, accommodation and ferry bookings. 

    • Check the official coverage map for your mobile provider. 

    • Tell someone where you are going when heading into the backcountry. 

    • Do not depend on mobile reception for emergency communication. 

The main mobile network operators are Spark, One NZ and 2degrees, while lower-cost brands such as Skinny are also available. I have used Spark and Skinny both over the years and both providers give great service, currently I use Skinny because I like their 28 day NZD$40 unlimited data plan for remote working.

An eSIM is convenient when your phone supports it, but it does not improve reception. It still connects through the mobile network attached to the chosen plan. Travellers with phones purchased overseas should also check that the device supports New Zealand’s 4G frequencies—particularly Band 28, which is important for rural coverage.

Wi‑Fi is available at most hotels and many cafés. public libraries are also useful places to find an internet connection.