01
How are Aurora’s Formed?
Auroras are most commonly visible near the northern and southern polar regions because the Earth's magnetic field channels charged particles from the solar wind toward the magnetic poles. When these particles collide with gases in the upper atmosphere, they produce the glowing lights known as auroras. As a result, countries located in the far northern and southern hemispheres such as Norway, Canada, and parts of Antarctica, tend to have the best visibility of these natural light displays.
Aurora taken in Greenland winter.
02
Know When and Where to Go
Best Time for Northern Lights in Norway
The best time to photograph the aurora in Norway is February and March. The nights are still long and dark, but the skies tend to be clearer than in the middle of winter. There's often a good amount of snow on the ground, which makes for beautiful landscape shots during the day too.
In mid-winter (December and January), it can be extremely cold, and cloud cover is more frequent. So if the aurora doesn’t show up due to bad weather, you might end up stuck with nothing to shoot. That’s why February and March are a sweet spot, even if you don’t catch the lights, you can still photograph snowy landscapes in good light.
If you’re combining aurora photography with landscapes, September is also a great time. You might get lucky with the first snow, and the autumn colors are stunning. Plus, you still have some daylight hours to shoot, so even if aurora conditions aren’t perfect, there’s still a lot to photograph.
Where to Go
Lofoten is one of the best locations for aurora photography. You get dramatic fjords, reflective water surfaces for double aurora effects, there are good accommodations, and relatively favorable weather. Compared to more inland areas like parts of Sweden, Lofoten often has less cloud cover which increases your chances of clear skies.
Senja is another excellent location for similar reasons. One thing to watch out for in Lofoten is light pollution from towns, especially if it's cloudy. But this can usually be managed by driving just 20–30 minutes away from town to find darker skies. Often in Lofoten the mountains are near the towns or highways so light pollutions is frequent there but still avoidable.
03
Tools to Maximize Your Chances
To make the most of your aurora-hunting trip, here are a few essentials:
• Use aurora forecast apps and websites (like My Aurora Forecast , Aurora Alerts , or the NOAA Kp index ). I always use PolarForecast a free website, it works well for me! In these apps you will see a Kp index which measures global aural activity on a scale of 0-9. A Kp index is considered high when it is between 7 and 9, then the aurora will be brighter/stronger. I find even when it is moderate it's still very visible and good for photography. Don't take the forecast exactly, it's a rough estimate. You can also see a cloud cover percentage, I like to cross-reference this with a weather app.
• Check local weather forecasts for cloud cover and clear skies. When I am in Lofoten, I use yr.no for weather updates as I find it the most reliable.
• Pay attention to moon phases — a full moon can brighten the sky too much and be a distraction, but it can also help light up the landscape in your shots.
04
Essential Gear
Since you’ll likely be shooting in winter, be prepared for cold conditions. Especially if you're waiting outside in the dark for the lights to appear! Make sure to bring the following:
• Extra layers and insulated clothing
• Warm gloves (ideally touchscreen or thin enough to operate your camera)
• Windproof and waterproof outerwear
• A headtorch or flashlight (preferably with a red light mode to preserve night vision)
• Spare batteries – Cold temperatures drain them much faster than normal, so keep extras in a warm pocket
Being properly prepared will not only keep you comfortable but also give you more time and focus to actually enjoy and capture the aurora. If you are too cold, you will be distracted by that and won't be totally focused on the photography.
05
Camera Settings for Aurora Photography
First things first: shoot in RAW. This gives you the most flexibility when editing your images later.
Always adjust your shooting to the conditions of course. Here are some general recommended settings:
Aperture (f-stop):
Use f/2.8 or the lowest f-number your lens allows. The lower the number, the more light your camera captures which is critical for night photography.
Shutter Speed:
Aim for a shutter speed of around 6 to 8 seconds. While longer exposures bring in more light, they can also blur or “wash out” the details of the aurora. Keeping your exposure short helps retain the structure and movement of the lights.
ISO:
Adjust your ISO based on your aperture and shutter speed. Most likely, you'll need a high ISO, somewhere around 1600 or higher. Just be careful not to overexpose the image.
White Balance:
You can shoot in auto white balance, and then adjust it later when editing. White balance plays a big role in how natural or surreal your aurora colors will appear, so it’s worth fine-tuning in post.
Using a remote shutter release gives you more control. Let’s say you’re mid-shot and the aurora suddenly intensifies - if you’ve locked in a 10-second exposure, you risk overexposing the frame. But with a remote, you can manually end the exposure early (e.g., after 5 seconds) to better capture the moment.
06
Composition Tips
The aurora typically moves toward the north, so you can already plan your composition before the lights even appear. Sometimes it zigzags across the sky before curving north, and other times it dances directly in that direction, creating natural leading lines.
Because of this, it’s smart to plan your shots based on the landscape. For example, in this photo I took in Greenland, I had already scouted a large mountain. I knew the aurora would likely arc in a way that would create leading lines pointing toward the peak. In addition the reflection in the water added even more impact. This kind of planning means you’re not scrambling around in the dark trying to find a composition when the lights appear - you’re already in the right spot, ready to shoot. The only struggle is then waiting for them to appear in the right place, so patience is necessary!
Even though the aurora is the main subject, all the core principles of landscape photography still apply. Think about:
• Interesting foregrounds
• Strong compositions
• Leading lines
• Balance and framing
These elements can transform a standard aurora photo into something truly compelling.
For instance, in another photo I took in Greenland, I used a waterfall as the foreground. The aurora alone was beautiful, but the waterfall added depth, scale, and context — elevating the image from a sky shot to a powerful landscape photograph.
07
Challenges
Cloud Cover
Weather plays a big role. Sometimes the sky is completely overcast and you won’t see a thing. Other times, it’s a mix of clear skies and clouds which can actually create dramatic scenes if you catch a break in the sky at the right moment. Some people who are purists about their northern lights will only want totally clear skies. So it depends on your shooting style how much of an issue this is for you.
The Moon
A full moon can flood the sky with light, which might drown out the aurora. On the flip side, moonlight can help illuminate the landscape. Again it really comes down to personal preference, whether you want darker skies for stronger auroras or moonlit scenes for added foreground detail. Just keep the moon phase in mind when planning your shoot. I like a certain amount of moonlight to highlight the mountains especially, but I also like to include the mooon as a subject, a bit like including the sun. Especially if it doesn't drown the lights out too much, it can make for a really unique composition.Aurora Strength
Even if the aurora shows up, it might not be very strong. You might see a faint green glow with the naked eye that looks more vibrant on camera or sometimes the color is barely there at all. I recommend if the conditions are good, as in clear skies, then always give it a go. Sometimes the strength rating predicts it will be low or moderate but when you shoot it is much stronger than that.
Timing is Unpredictable
You never know exactly when the aurora will appear. It could be 7 PM, or 3 AM. Realistically, you’re not going to stare at the sky for 12 hours straight, so patience and a bit of luck is part of the process.
Be Prepared for the Cold
Especially north of the Arctic Circle, temperatures can be brutal. Make sure you and your gear are both ready. Batteries die faster in cold weather, your tripod legs can freeze, and your fingers will go numb fast without the right gloves.
Compositions May Not Align
Even with solid pre-planning and location scouting, the aurora might not line up with your intended composition. It could appear in a totally different part of the sky than you hoped so be flexible and ready to adapt. I like to have multiple compositions in different directions lined up. That way if I can choose to shoot where the chance is higher.
Avoid Light Pollution
Light pollution from towns and cities can wash out the sky and make the aurora much harder to see or photograph. It’s best to get well away from populated areas. Even 20–30 minutes outside a small town can make a big difference.
08
Post-Processing Tips
Once you've captured your aurora shots, a little editing can go a long way in bringing out the detail and colors. Here are a few simple post-processing tips.
Aurora images are often darker than you remember, especially if you exposed to preserve detail in the sky. Gently lift the shadows and exposure to bring out the landscape and overall clarity, but don’t overdo it or you’ll introduce noise. The aurora is usually green, but every camera interprets color a bit differently. You want it to look natural, not neon. If it's too green or too cold (too much blue), try warming the temperature slightly until it matches what you saw with your eyes. Adding a bit of clarity or dehaze can help the aurora pop — especially in hazy or low-contrast conditions. Just be careful not to over-sharpen or create halos.
Shooting at high ISOs means you’ll likely have some digital noise, especially in the shadows. Use noise reduction tools in Lightroom or your editor of choice, but maintain detail, especially in the stars and edges of the aurora. If the aurora didn’t align perfectly with your foreground, don’t be afraid to crop. You can often improve the composition by adjusting the balance slightly in post.
09
Final Thoughts
Photographing the aurora is one of the most rewarding experiences a photographer can have mostly due to the many unpredictable challenges which are out of your control. It makes it so much more satisfying when everything lines up and you get the shot.
So plan ahead, dress warm, know your settings, and remember: even if the aurora doesn’t show, you're still out in some of the most stunning landscapes in the world. That in itself is part of the magic!
Share your experience, ask a question, or tell us what you would love to photograph.